Mystic Devitrification - Avoiding Devitrification with Reichenbach 104 Mystic Glass
Lampworking Tips & Techniques
Update 2023: This post is worthy of being re-published because I forgot everything that I used to know. Okay not really, but I hadn't used any of my Reichenbach Mystic glass for a very long time. When looking for a nice ivory glass to pair with my denim blues ... I instantly grabbed my Reichenbach Mystic Beige. And then proceeded to devitrify the snot out of it when marvering it around in my beadrollers.
And then I remembered everything that I used to know. Reichenbach Mystic Beige does not like being marvered. Or pressed. Or generally touched with any tool other than the flame itself. I went back and re-read my own post and decided to set down the marver and round those babies up with gravity the old-fashioned way.
Although I have seen many a marvelous beads made with this glass, my experience was not the elated euphoria I was hoping for. I was instead met with devitrified disappointment. All of the 'Mystic' glass rods I used devitrified and formed a pitted, bubbled, white chalky residue on the surface that was anything but the "shampoo" sheen I was anticipating.
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| Devitrified Mystic Glass Beads |
I scoured the Internet for all the information I could find on staving off the evil devitrification monster and stumbled upon a blog post about working the famed EDP (Effetre 'Evil Devitrifying Purple').
I went back to the torch armed and ready with new information and a totally different approach. Much success ensued and I had my moment of euphoric enthusiasm after all.
The key to working Reichenbach 104 Mystic glass is to treat it a little bit like EDP.
It does not like the rapid heating/cooling/re-heating process. It also doesn't like to get too hot and worked for too long. Get in, get shaped and get out. Don't futz around, and don't press it too often.
I remade the same beads and just modified my process. Instead of pressing after each "step" I only pressed twice - once to initially size up the footprint, and then at the very end for final shaping. I worked it much cooler and much faster - no futzing around. Keep an even heat and modify your flame chemistry to be ever-so-slightly reducing. Scale back the oxy just a bit for a soft bushy flame, but not enough to create a full-blown reduction flame.
I remade the same beads and just modified my process. Instead of pressing after each "step" I only pressed twice - once to initially size up the footprint, and then at the very end for final shaping. I worked it much cooler and much faster - no futzing around. Keep an even heat and modify your flame chemistry to be ever-so-slightly reducing. Scale back the oxy just a bit for a soft bushy flame, but not enough to create a full-blown reduction flame.
And voila! Pretty mystic beads without the devitrification.
Are you new to working with Reichenbach glass? I've been using it more frequently, so follow along as I catalogue my journey with this beautiful glass.
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